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Thursday, March 18, 2010

An Irrational Amount of Pi(e) (part 2) a.k.a. it's all about crust

When we last saw Aileen, she was in a food coma.

"Doctor, do you think she'll ever wake up?"

"I'm not sure.  I'm not a doctor, I only play one on T.V."

Soap operas are weird.  Anyway, I'm finally not full! So, I'll tell you about the savory portion of my birthday celebration.

To really celebrate Pi Day, you have to have savory as well as sweet pies.  Immediately pizza pies were the obvious and most popular choice.  But you could also have empanadas, shepherd's pies, tamale pies, some people even make paella.

But who are you kidding?  Pizza is the best.

My stand-by recipe is based on America's Test Kitchen's pissaladiere.  I love this crust because it is not too thick or thin and also nice and chewy.  I've done it so many times I know it only takes about 2 hrs from food processor to table.  I've baked it in the oven on a stone as well as on the grill.  I prefer the grill because you can get a nice char on it.  Unfortunately, this time there was tooooo much char on the bottom.  Oh well, it's been a whole season since we've grilled. I kinda forgot how, lol.  
Wait, these pie aren't round.  Well, some pie are squared. LOL! NERD!  Ok, these look more like amoebas.  Picky picky.

These are probably my favorite pizza toppings.  The margherita is tomato, fresh mozzarella, and tons of basil.  The other is Italian sausage, sauteed mushrooms, and caramelized onions with tomato and cheese.  I'd also be happy if it were just onions and mushrooms and olives, closer to an actual pissaldiere.
Sauteed cremini mushrooms and caramelized onions...mmmmMake sure you get a nice brown crust on the mushrooms and the onions are really caramelized, not just sauteed.  Don't forget to deglaze the onions with water and the mushrooms with sherry.

I don't make pizza sauce.  I just use tomatoes that taste good on their own.  So, I only use Cento canned tomatoes because other canned tomatoes taste like the can.  You can also probably use any other brand of San Marzano type tomatoes.  Most of the time I just crush the tomatoes and spread them on the dough, but this time I had my brother/sous chef season it up a bit with some Italian seasoning and whatever else he wanted. 

The same and additional toppings were used on a new addition to my recipe box: Chicago style deep dish pizza!  The recipe can be found in the Feb 2010 issue of Cooks Illustrated
Good thing I wasn't making cake.  I wouldn't have had any pans.
These pizzas were decadent.  Making the dough involves lamination which means after letting it rise for an hour, you slather it with softened butter, roll it up and let it rise some more.  You end up with buttery pizza perfection.  However, do not eat this for breakfast.  You will not feel good, trust me. 

My brother artfully topped this one with LOTS of pepperoni.
 I'm touching your food!

Later that night, my brother came across the America's Test Kitchen episode for Chicago deep dish pizza.  What a coincidence!  It wouldn't be so scary if this exact same thing hadn't happen before when I made tomato soup, pizza bianca, and talked about digital scales.  I think Chris Kimball is stalking me. 

Pissaladiere crust from Cooks Illustrated (I hope they don't break my legs for posting this) that I'm writing from memory, I've done this so much.  Did I mention my dad asks me to make pizza every chance he gets?

You will need a big food processor.  Or strong arms and intuition as to when bread has been kneaded enough. Which I don't have, so I have a food processor.  
2  cups of bread flour  (I've also had good results with APF, better if a tbs of vital wheat gluten is added, and is essential if you use white whole wheat.  I've never tried with regular whole wheat.)
1 tsp yeast
1 tsp salt
1 tbs olive oil
1 c water, 110degF (About a minute in the microwave, if you don't have a thermometer.  But if you don't have a thermometer, GO BUY ONE)

Put the dry ingredients in the food processor fitted with the plastic dough blade.  Don't dump the salt on the yeast, lest you make the yeast angry.  You won't want to see them angry.  Pulse to mix.  

With the machine running, slowly add the olive oil.  Then slowly add the water.  Stop adding water when the dough has formed a ball.  Continue running the processor for 15 seconds.  

Flour your work surface and your hands.  Dump your dough onto the counter and knead a few times to make a ball.  Put your dough in an oiled bowl or a big 4cup measuring cup.  Turn the dough over in the oil to coat it.  It will rise better if it doesn't have to break through a dry crust.  Cover the bowl and let it rise for about and hour and a half in a warm spot.  If you don't have a warm spot, set it on a heating pad.  Tell it a bedtime story. 

While it's rising, ready your toppings and heat your oven 500degF with the stone placed on the lowest rack.  Or, heat up your grill. 

When the dough is doubled in size (which is why a measuring cup is nice to use) divide it in half and gently form little balls with all the edges gathered underneath.  Let it rest under a towel or plastic wrap for 10min so the gluten relaxes and you can make a big a pizza pie. 

After the 10 mins, stretch the dough by letting gravity help.  With oil coated hands, hold one end of the dough and let the rest stretch toward the ground until you have something that is about 8 x 14in.  

If you're using your oven, generously coat your pizza peel with cornmeal (cream of wheat works well, too) to use as tiny ball bearings.  (You do have a peel, don't you?  No?  How about the underside of a baking sheet?  You have a stone, right?  If not, use a baking sheet, but it will not be nearly as good.  I haven't tried it, but I've heard pretty good things about an upside down cast iron skillet,but you'll have a small round pizza, and possible too thick of a crust. )  Place your dough on the peel and add your toppings.  Not too much, or it'll be soggy.  Make sure your dough isn't sticking to the peel while you work.  When all the toppings are on, slide the pizza on the stone and bake for 12 minutes or until the cheese is melted and your crust is crusty.  

If you're using your grill, you'll want to use indirect heat, so shove all your coals out of the way.  I'm always afraid the dough will fall through, so I use a large piece of oiled foil.  Place the stretched dough on the foil.  Since the dough still sticks a bit, the pizza never shrinks and you can get it pretty thin.  Bake the crust without toppings for about 5 -10 mins or until the bottom starts to brown and char (depending on how much you like char).  Flip it over and peel off the foil.  Add your toppings (you can add more toppings than on a oven baked pizza since the bread is already cooked and can absorb some juices.  Close the grill and it's done when the cheese is melted (another 5 mins, maybe). Keep an eye on it so you don't make charcoal pizza!

Devour immediately (before someone else does!)

1 comment:

  1. MMMMMMmmmmmmm pizzaaaaaaa..... *Homer Simpson voice*
    I will definitely have to try both of these! Our old standby is the pizza Bianca recipe from ATK, which we love, but it's starting to get a little old. Although, we did make the pizza Bianca for my dad's b-day dinner party as an appetizer with caramelized onions, Gorgonzola, and rosemary. Yay for fancy pizza! I can't wait to tell Andrew about pizza on the grill, I have a feeling he'll be making that within a week!

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